Help with putting carbs back in

Submitted by mikluha on Mon, 2010-03-29 17:12

Greetings all,

I am a new owner of 1996 zx1100 GPZ (black). According to the PO, the bike was last ran 2 years but the registration sticker actually says 2004. Anyhow, it was in a good shape visually (it didn't run) and I got it for relatively cheap.

I started with cleaning the carbs. I took them of by pulling first from the intake boots and then tilting a bit upwards (intake side) and sliding sidways. They were in a god shape so I just cleaned the bowls and sprays the cleaner through the jets. Now the hard part. I managed to slide them back in (took me about 40 min) and now I can not get the airbox boots to slide on the carb ports. It looks like the airbox can not move close enough to get the boots on the carbs. I spent about an hour on that with no success.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Also there is no spark even though all electrics work except the front light. This will be my next target

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I probably have that issue

Submitted by mikluha on Mon, 2011-04-04 21:51.

I probably have that issue too since when I got the bike it was overflowing the carb/cylinders.
But I managed to but everything back on so it should be good for a while.

There is another point which

Submitted by Rumbly on Mon, 2011-04-04 12:57.

There is another point which may or may not apply in your case. The carbs have no overflow, so if say the float valves leak (common problem on these bikes due to rust in tank and leaky fuel tap) petrol level rises and gets onto the inlet rubbers. This makes them hard, and shrinks them, making it much more difficult to get everything to connect up again properly. My bike suffered from this and I ended up buying new inlet rubbers (airbox to carbs). The new ones were a good 5mm longer than the old ones, making it more difficult to get the carbs in place ... but easier to get the inlet rubbers to mate up properly.

carb instalation part II

Submitted by Gmaan on Fri, 2011-01-14 05:26.

The back boots!
After installing the carbs use a flash light and make sure the rear boots are not pinched into the intake ports.
Grab the air box and slowly push forward, keep looking at the boots and intake ports, check for kinking, use a long screw driver to straighten as required to keep the boots from colapsing into the ports.
Patience will get them together.
The springs that clamp the air box boots are a pain in the ass, use two small diameter picks that are bent at 90 deg, hook the top and bottom of each spring and slide it into the groove. work the hooks around and the spring will eventualy stay in the groove enough for you to use your finger or long skinny screw driver to giude it on all the way around.
You can purchase the 90 deg picks from Ace hardware, under the "General tools" brand. they are only a coupe bucks each.

Carb instalation

Submitted by Gmaan on Fri, 2011-01-14 05:18.

Here is what I did to make carb installing easier.
I went down to Ace Hardware and purchased a piece of sheetmetal around 1/32 thick x 4" x 24" long
I cut it into two pieces 12" long.
I placed one piece against the intake boots and one piece between the air box boots, sprayed a little chain lube on the faces.
I then started on the right side, and slid the carbs between the sheet metal. As I got it half way in I atteched the throttle cables, and slid it all the way in.
It is a little tough starting but once it goes it slides nice.
When it was all the way in I alighned the front of the carbs to the intake boots, grabbed a pair of pliers and slid out the front piece of sheet metal and poped the carbs into the boots. The back piece came right out.

Thanks for the advice. about

Submitted by mikluha on Fri, 2011-03-04 22:53.

Thanks for the advice. about a year late but still good.
Putting the airbox boots back on is a PITA but my problem turned out to be that there is a bolt that holds the airbox in place. Once removed it allowed me to push the airbox with the boots against the carbs and this made it a lot easier.